Upgrading the Exhaust System

After installing the intake filter, next to be upgraded is the exhaust system. Since more air is being pushed into the engine, I must find a way to efficiently let all that air out.

There are three parts to this system:

1. Headers - collects all exhaust gases from the cylinders, and funnels it into the next part;

2. Pipe - the long tube running the length of the car

3. Muffler - the part where all the silencing takes place

Research has taught me that the key to an efficient engine is to have the exhaust gases go out of the system as fast as possible. To do that, you must have sufficient exhaust velocity. To do this, you must have the right headers/pipe/exhaust diameter for your engine displacement. Rule of thumb is 2-inches for 1.3-1.6L naturally aspirated engines, 2.5" for 1.8-2L engines, 3" and above for F.I./Turbo engines.

My EG hatch build is a simple one, so sticking to OEM is the key to get quality and effective parts. 

Darwin of HCP has a surplus EG6 full exhaust (pipe and muffler) for around P5,500. This is a good addition to my car because first, it is bolt-on; second, it's more than 2" in diameter -- perfect for my new engine displacement (1.6L compared to the 1.3L of the stock PH12).

Comparison of my old 1.5-1.75 inch PH12 pipe and new EG6 pipe:

Had it installed in Mufflerland Kamuning for P800 bucks.

But of course, I get what I paid for. Installation was not perfect; welds are not clean, seems like an amateur install. If I have a chance, I'll have this re-installed by a more "pro" shop. Please suggest your favorite muffler shop here in the east/north in the comments.

The Breath of Life

My consumption problem (7KM/L) was just bugging me. Ever since the swap, there are times that I don't necessarily enjoy the power because I was trying to conserve gas.

Anyway, I thought I should actively do something about this problem. First thing that I thought to upgrade was the airflow system for the following reasons:

1. A constricted air flow (whether intake or exhaust) robs the engine of power.
2. The less power you feel, the more you step on the accelerator pedal.
3. The deeper the pedal, more gasoline would be fed into the cylinders = increased gas consumption.

Since the engine didn't come with any air filter box, the urgent thing to install is an air filter.

There are 2 popular configurations of after market tubular filters:

1. CAI or the Cold Air Intake - pipe is longer and the filter itself is located outside the engine bay because the colder the air, the denser it is (the warmer the air, the lighter it becomes -- that's why hot air makes hot air balloons float); hence, more air is pushed into the cylinder per cycle. This is more preferred to get more power, but this comes with a price. This will cost around P6K to P10K depending on the brand. You can also build this yourself if you have the necessary tools to bend the air pipes.

Here's how it looks like installed on a D16 VTEC SOHC Engine:

2. SRI or the Short Ram Intake - pipe is shorter than CAI and the filter is inside the engine bay. Air that goes through this system is hotter than CAI, but not as restrictive as the stock air box. Using this is also safe against "hydro lock", which is a term used when CAI is blocked by water from floods which can actually damage the engine.

SRI looks like this on a D16 SOHC VTEC Engine:

This is after all a budget build so I think I can live with SRI.

After reading some forums (HCP, GT, and MLPH), I tried looking for a particular kind of tube. This tube is a fat type that some say is really effective in accelerating air that goes in the manifold.

The tube looks like this:

I saw a Simota branded plastic tube with filter in Concorde but hell, it was really expensive at P3.5K. Knowing that I might find a better deal some place, I scoured Banawe for this kind but failed.

Since I badly need one already, I settled for a normal 3" aluminum intake tube and filter by Simota which only cost me P1.4K in C3 Audio. Not bad.

Do you think it is a good idea to buy the fat tube? Hit the comments and let me know what you think!

H3 Autoworks: Engine Transplant Turnout

I brought my car in Monday, and got it Wednesday night.

Just a few thoughts on the swap:

1. The transmission is still my OLD PH12 transmission -- not the S20 that Bong said that he would install.
2. Compressor is still my old compressor -- not the "complete" engine Bong has told me.
3. No air cleaner box was installed. -- again, not as complete as expected.

These are minor issues, but if a customer was told the swap is a "complete" swap, then the customer will expect a "complete" one. It's just a matter of managing expectations.

Anyway, the engine is good. It runs well, and the oil is clean. Power is not there yet because I still have the stock pipes (~1.25-1.5 inch) of the PH12.

The problem is fuel economy. Right now, I'm running at 7km/L. Less efficient than my PH12 at times!
ECU is a P70, head is P08, all stock.
If you know the solution to my problem, just hit the comment button.

Here are some pictures (of the head):

Update: Today, July 16, 2011, I finally got the papers of my engine swap. It has been a long wait.
Reason behind is that: 1. Bong can't remember where he got the engine; 2. The engine number is quite difficult to read. Anyway, I believe that's it's an honest mistake and I don't take that against H3. Of course, their expertise and years of experience in what they do can't be undermined by this minor inconvenience it has caused me. And my final say in this experience is that -- I will come back to H3 Autoworks for my engine concerns.

Pictures of my engine: